Maintenance Guide
ets start off by talking about the obvious, your car has what is termed a 'maintenance minder'. I cant know what yours says, because the maintenance needs are computed by the car based on many factors (although I dont actually think it monitors very closely). I would guess that you should do most of the following, omitting anything that you have done recently:
Minder Letter A
Replace engine oil1 and oil filter (this can be done yourself)
this should be done every 3-5,000 miles under strenuous driving conditions (which pretty much covers everybody). use 4.6 quarts of 5w-30 oil. I recommend royal purple, based on an article I read ( http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf ). here is a link to a DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...oob-style.html I am assuming that you drive an SI, if not use the appropriate oil and filter for an R18 engine.
Minder Letter B
Inspect front and rear brakes (inspection can be done free at most brake shops or dealers)
there are two sides to this. first you should inspect your brakes for unusual break dust and to make sure they are still assembled correctly at least every oil change. the second side is regular wear and tear. you should get wear measured every 15,000 miles, or if you here squealing noises or feel jerkiness. most brake shops or dealers will tell you how much wear you have but beware of crooked shops that will lie and tell you that your brakes need replacement. they should not charge you for this or ask you to buy something first, if they do just go to the next shop. also ask them to show you the brake measurement. if needed change your brakes. here is a DIY for the front http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...rake-pads.html and one for the back http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...rake-pads.html. budget brake pads can be purchased for cheap at NAPA, check out our sponsors (Corsport is good) for good deals on performance brakes (I recommend red stuff or Green stuff)
Check parking brake adjustment (this can be done by yourself)
Parking brake should not be too loose or too tight, and it should hold the car at any incline or decline (within reason). here is a DIYhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...djustment.html. no parts needed here!
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
Checking these things is not really diffiult in one sense but in another it is really hard. checking the boots is similar to checking hoses. make sure that there are no leaks or wet spots, check that the boot flexes regularly (not to hard not to soft) check that the seals on top and bottom are in good shape. at 50,000 I recommend getting a professional alignment. chances are you have hit some potholes or maybe even a curb in that time so getting this done wont hurt. more importantly they will check these things while doing the alignment (at least at the Honda Dealer) so they will be able to let you know if you need to replace anything. I tried to find some really good DIYs on the site about alignment and suspension, but I couldnt find anything that covered it all. there is a lot of information, and if you do need to change or repair anything in these areas feel free to make a DIY
Inspect suspension components (see tie rods etc.)
This involves your springs, shocks, coilovers, and sway bars. I also include exhaust hangers and any other underbody components. again the key is to make sure that everything is in place, that there are no visible marks or dents, and that there are no leaks or wet spots. as with the above item a professional alignment will inspect most of this stuff. just make sure that you crawl under your car and have a look at everything. if something is out of place or has visible marks or road rash on it jiggle it around and think about replacing it (use common sense). you can follow any suspension DIY but here is a link to onehttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...g-si-06-a.html
Inspect driveshaft boots
same as above. honda dealer should look at this for free during an alignment. if boots have been torn or otherwise compromised, you may have major contamination. you will want to consider replacing your shafts if this is the case. I have not been able to find a DIY for replacing these, feel free to create one if you do this.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS) (This can be done yourself)
visually follow the brake lines from the calipers or drums. check for wet spots or deformations of any kind especially around joints on the hard lines. the hoses should be firm but not hard (without brake pressure) they should also not be soft and squishy. brake pedal feel should also be considered. make sure that you haven't noticed any appreciable difference in engagement points and feel. the emergency brake cable should not be freyed (see parking brake adjustment above). Independent of the maintenance minder indicator in the information display, replace the brake fluid every 3 years. here is an inspection list Brake System Inspection and Test. here is a DIY for brake lines http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...ake-lines.html and here is one for the brake fluid if neededhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...tallation.html
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids (this can be done yourself)
Check Oil, Brake fluid, Coolant, Transmission Fluid, windshield washer fluid, power steering fluid (if you have this), and of course blinker fluid. oil should be gold (or purple) to black, it should not be frothy and therir should not be a milky substance under neath the oil filler cap (this can indicate a head gasket problem). brake fluid should be gold-brown, if it is black then you have a sealing problem. coolant should be whatever color it is supposed to be (blue, Pink, Yellow, or green) it should not be milky or oily and should not be very dirty, if coolant is miscolored or oily you may have a head gasket problem. Steering fluid should be like brake fluid except pink or red (mostly). refill washer fluid to recommended levels. Blinker fluid is really expensive and only available once a year since it is produced high in the andes mountains by a clan of one armed dwarfs (or little people as they like to be called) who spend the rest of the year assembling flux capacitors, plan accordingly.
Inspect exhaust system (this can be done yourself)
your exhaust should not be leaking gases. check for visible holes or gaps in joints and at the header gasket if you can. can be done with soap and water test. catalytic converter and muffler should not rattle. replace if necessary. you can use any exhaust diy for this http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...i-06-08-a.html
Inspect fuel lines and connections (inspect yourself, change professionally)
similar to brake lines. check for leaks and we spots. our cars do not have replaceable fuel filters. I recommend professional assistance if you have a problem, after all fuel is really flammable. see this for a map Fuel Line Inspection (K20Z)
Minder Number 1
Rotate Tires (can be done yourself or for free at tire store)
do this every oil change if you can. if you have purchased your tires from a local tire store like discount or les schwab they will usually do this for free. sometimes they will do it for free anyway to earn your future business. use an X pattern if you have nondirectional tires, or a back to front swap if they are directional. here is an article from tirerack.com Tire Tech Information - Tire Rotation Instructions. also take some time to inspect your tires and wheels. tire wear can be measured with a coin per this article Tire Tech Information - Measuring Tire Tread Depth with a Coin
Minder Number 2
Replace air cleaner element (this can be done yourself)
Manual say "If you drive in dusty conditions, replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km)" I recommend 10,000-12,000. follow this DIY for Stock air cleanerhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...r-install.html
Replace dust and pollen filter (this can be done yourself)
replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km). here is the DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...placement.html
Inspect drive belt (this can be done yourself)
drive belt should look clean and black (not brownish and not with white stripes or specks). look at this link for more details DIY Serpentine Belt Inspection - Does Your Serpentine Engine Belt Need Replacing - Inspect Your Serpentine Belt. if you need to replace it check out this DIY for NST pulleyshttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...-civic-si.html
Minder Number 3
Replace transmission fluid (this can be done yourself)
Tansmission Fluid should be changed every 25,000 miles, but at least once every 50,000 miles. 1.6 Quarts 10W-30 or 10W-40 Tans oil. I recommend the Honda stuff because I have heard bad stories about using other brands. here is a DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/trans...ion-fluid.html
Minder Number 4
Replace spark plugs
not necessary until 100,000 miles. worth looking at if you notice drop in power or fuel efficiency. here is a DIY for getting at them if you needhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...r-removal.html
edit: I had a conversation with a Honda Tech last week who said if my plugs last till 100,000 then at 80,000 they are 80% worn, and his dealership recommends changing them at 80,000. That made sense to me, so I decided to change the plugs. it made a huge difference. My engine started to run very slightly roughly at about 75,000 but I chalked it up to valve adjustment. However, after I changed the plugs the car is running like butter. Also, because the roughness was clearly due to a slight misfire, I feel a lot more low end torque and less hesitation. I am not saying I have more power or torque total, but at the low end it feels a lot better. just wanted to share my experience, and recommend changing these at 80,000. Thanks again to the DIY above, and also this DIY for compression test:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...lots-pics.html
my compression test numbers were a little strange to me (215, 215, 215, 220) but after speaking with some mechanic friends of mine different factors change test numbers (like peculiarities of testers), so whats most important is consistency.
Inspect valve clearance
again it shouldnt be a problem for at least 100,000 miles. if you here notticable valve cliking you should inspect the valves using the same DIY above for removing the valve cover and these DIYs for checking them (click on the appropriate links http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/040404.html
Minder Number 5
Replace engine coolant (This can be done yourself)
I have seen a lot of conflicting info on when to do this on this sight. some people advocate waiting for 100000 miles or 10 years to change the coolant, others say otherwise. after reading some general articles online about when to do this, I found that most recommen 3 year/30,000 miles to protect against corrosion. coolant is very cheap and changing it is very easy so I would go with this approach. getting a professional coolant system flush at 50-60,000 is also probably a good Idea but not required.you need 1.8 gallons of 50/50 antifreeze here is a DIY Coolant Replacement (K20Z) according to this manual you should only use Honda stuff but I am not sure how important it is in this case. either way it is fairly cheap.
CONCLUSION:
so to sum it up you should do most of these things on this list but you can also just follow your maintenance minder. use your own common sense to figure out what you think needs to be done. again I have been assuming that you have an SI, if not you will need to look for R18 specific info on some of the links but mostly it is available. check this site for most things http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/manual.html.
other things to keep in mind that are not listed above include:
1. Clutch
you should be mindful of your clutch wear as well. an easy way to check if you have slippage is by driving to about 45 MPH, putting your car in 3rd and slamming the brakes until the car comes to a full stop and dies. watch the RPM guage, if your RPMs shoot up, then your clutch is slipping and you should consider changing it soon. here is DIY if you need to change the clutch Dropping transmission to replace clutch
2. Windshield Wipers
change your windshield wipers every 20-30,000 miles or as necessary. you can either buy the inserts (relatively cheap) or the full blades (relatively expensive).Windshield wiper replacement sedan
3. Radiator Hoses and engine wiring and battery
Radiator Hoses should be firm but not hard. they should also not be squishy and sticky. the hose should not be bloated or deformed. here is a video that explains more How to Check Radiator Hoses - Mahalo.com. changing your hose is easy, just undue the clamps and put the new hose on. you should also change/drain your coolant if you need to change your hose (see above). engine wiring should also be visibly inspected. the most important wires to check are the battery cables. corrosion should be cleaned off of these cables. this can be done with any carbonated drink but is best done with regular soda water, and a wire brush. make sure that corrosion has not entered the insulation. if it has, consider replacing the cable. paint the leads and cable ends with anti corrosive chemical and reinstall. if you have been experiencing a lot of corrosion lately, it could be a result of a dying battery, parasitic electric drain, or overdrawing your cars electrical system (usually after market parts such as stereo equipment or lighting). if you have recently installed high draw after market equipment, you may want to consult a stereo shop on whether you need a high capacity alternator or other remedies. if you are experiencing parasitic drain see a professional for assistance. if your battery is more than 5 years old or you have recently experienced several dead battery situations you should consider replacing it. check your other engine wires as well for corrosion or insulation burning/defects. replace as nessasary.
4. Door/Windo/Sunroof/Trunk seals
inspect your seals for tearing leaking or other defects. replace as necessary. you should also use Shin-Etsu (or any other silicone based) grease to lubricate your window seals.
5. Timing Chain
our cars are equipped with Timing Chains, which is good because they are more durable than timing belts. like any other interference engine, failure in the timing chain will result in catastrophic consequences. that being said, timing chains should not need replacing if you keep up with regular engine maintenance. it would still be a good idea to have your timing chain inspected every 80,000 to 100,000 miles. this can easily be done when you have your valves inspected as per Maintenance Minder 4. if the chain looks damaged, is excessively loose, or if the tensioner seems to be malfunctioning replace the chain and tensioner. check this link for more on inspectionCam Chain Inspection (K20Z)
I cannot take credit for any of these DIYs or other articles that I did not write. please take a second to leave them a message letting them know that their DIY was helpful.
anybody else please feel free to add to this or correct this as nessasary.
Have a Nice Day!
Minder Letter A
Replace engine oil1 and oil filter (this can be done yourself)
this should be done every 3-5,000 miles under strenuous driving conditions (which pretty much covers everybody). use 4.6 quarts of 5w-30 oil. I recommend royal purple, based on an article I read ( http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf ). here is a link to a DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...oob-style.html I am assuming that you drive an SI, if not use the appropriate oil and filter for an R18 engine.
Minder Letter B
Inspect front and rear brakes (inspection can be done free at most brake shops or dealers)
there are two sides to this. first you should inspect your brakes for unusual break dust and to make sure they are still assembled correctly at least every oil change. the second side is regular wear and tear. you should get wear measured every 15,000 miles, or if you here squealing noises or feel jerkiness. most brake shops or dealers will tell you how much wear you have but beware of crooked shops that will lie and tell you that your brakes need replacement. they should not charge you for this or ask you to buy something first, if they do just go to the next shop. also ask them to show you the brake measurement. if needed change your brakes. here is a DIY for the front http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...rake-pads.html and one for the back http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...rake-pads.html. budget brake pads can be purchased for cheap at NAPA, check out our sponsors (Corsport is good) for good deals on performance brakes (I recommend red stuff or Green stuff)
Check parking brake adjustment (this can be done by yourself)
Parking brake should not be too loose or too tight, and it should hold the car at any incline or decline (within reason). here is a DIYhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...djustment.html. no parts needed here!
Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
Checking these things is not really diffiult in one sense but in another it is really hard. checking the boots is similar to checking hoses. make sure that there are no leaks or wet spots, check that the boot flexes regularly (not to hard not to soft) check that the seals on top and bottom are in good shape. at 50,000 I recommend getting a professional alignment. chances are you have hit some potholes or maybe even a curb in that time so getting this done wont hurt. more importantly they will check these things while doing the alignment (at least at the Honda Dealer) so they will be able to let you know if you need to replace anything. I tried to find some really good DIYs on the site about alignment and suspension, but I couldnt find anything that covered it all. there is a lot of information, and if you do need to change or repair anything in these areas feel free to make a DIY
Inspect suspension components (see tie rods etc.)
This involves your springs, shocks, coilovers, and sway bars. I also include exhaust hangers and any other underbody components. again the key is to make sure that everything is in place, that there are no visible marks or dents, and that there are no leaks or wet spots. as with the above item a professional alignment will inspect most of this stuff. just make sure that you crawl under your car and have a look at everything. if something is out of place or has visible marks or road rash on it jiggle it around and think about replacing it (use common sense). you can follow any suspension DIY but here is a link to onehttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...g-si-06-a.html
Inspect driveshaft boots
same as above. honda dealer should look at this for free during an alignment. if boots have been torn or otherwise compromised, you may have major contamination. you will want to consider replacing your shafts if this is the case. I have not been able to find a DIY for replacing these, feel free to create one if you do this.
Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS) (This can be done yourself)
visually follow the brake lines from the calipers or drums. check for wet spots or deformations of any kind especially around joints on the hard lines. the hoses should be firm but not hard (without brake pressure) they should also not be soft and squishy. brake pedal feel should also be considered. make sure that you haven't noticed any appreciable difference in engagement points and feel. the emergency brake cable should not be freyed (see parking brake adjustment above). Independent of the maintenance minder indicator in the information display, replace the brake fluid every 3 years. here is an inspection list Brake System Inspection and Test. here is a DIY for brake lines http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...ake-lines.html and here is one for the brake fluid if neededhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...tallation.html
Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids (this can be done yourself)
Check Oil, Brake fluid, Coolant, Transmission Fluid, windshield washer fluid, power steering fluid (if you have this), and of course blinker fluid. oil should be gold (or purple) to black, it should not be frothy and therir should not be a milky substance under neath the oil filler cap (this can indicate a head gasket problem). brake fluid should be gold-brown, if it is black then you have a sealing problem. coolant should be whatever color it is supposed to be (blue, Pink, Yellow, or green) it should not be milky or oily and should not be very dirty, if coolant is miscolored or oily you may have a head gasket problem. Steering fluid should be like brake fluid except pink or red (mostly). refill washer fluid to recommended levels. Blinker fluid is really expensive and only available once a year since it is produced high in the andes mountains by a clan of one armed dwarfs (or little people as they like to be called) who spend the rest of the year assembling flux capacitors, plan accordingly.
Inspect exhaust system (this can be done yourself)
your exhaust should not be leaking gases. check for visible holes or gaps in joints and at the header gasket if you can. can be done with soap and water test. catalytic converter and muffler should not rattle. replace if necessary. you can use any exhaust diy for this http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...i-06-08-a.html
Inspect fuel lines and connections (inspect yourself, change professionally)
similar to brake lines. check for leaks and we spots. our cars do not have replaceable fuel filters. I recommend professional assistance if you have a problem, after all fuel is really flammable. see this for a map Fuel Line Inspection (K20Z)
Minder Number 1
Rotate Tires (can be done yourself or for free at tire store)
do this every oil change if you can. if you have purchased your tires from a local tire store like discount or les schwab they will usually do this for free. sometimes they will do it for free anyway to earn your future business. use an X pattern if you have nondirectional tires, or a back to front swap if they are directional. here is an article from tirerack.com Tire Tech Information - Tire Rotation Instructions. also take some time to inspect your tires and wheels. tire wear can be measured with a coin per this article Tire Tech Information - Measuring Tire Tread Depth with a Coin
Minder Number 2
Replace air cleaner element (this can be done yourself)
Manual say "If you drive in dusty conditions, replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km)" I recommend 10,000-12,000. follow this DIY for Stock air cleanerhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...r-install.html
Replace dust and pollen filter (this can be done yourself)
replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km). here is the DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...placement.html
Inspect drive belt (this can be done yourself)
drive belt should look clean and black (not brownish and not with white stripes or specks). look at this link for more details DIY Serpentine Belt Inspection - Does Your Serpentine Engine Belt Need Replacing - Inspect Your Serpentine Belt. if you need to replace it check out this DIY for NST pulleyshttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...-civic-si.html
Minder Number 3
Replace transmission fluid (this can be done yourself)
Tansmission Fluid should be changed every 25,000 miles, but at least once every 50,000 miles. 1.6 Quarts 10W-30 or 10W-40 Tans oil. I recommend the Honda stuff because I have heard bad stories about using other brands. here is a DIY http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/trans...ion-fluid.html
Minder Number 4
Replace spark plugs
not necessary until 100,000 miles. worth looking at if you notice drop in power or fuel efficiency. here is a DIY for getting at them if you needhttp://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...r-removal.html
edit: I had a conversation with a Honda Tech last week who said if my plugs last till 100,000 then at 80,000 they are 80% worn, and his dealership recommends changing them at 80,000. That made sense to me, so I decided to change the plugs. it made a huge difference. My engine started to run very slightly roughly at about 75,000 but I chalked it up to valve adjustment. However, after I changed the plugs the car is running like butter. Also, because the roughness was clearly due to a slight misfire, I feel a lot more low end torque and less hesitation. I am not saying I have more power or torque total, but at the low end it feels a lot better. just wanted to share my experience, and recommend changing these at 80,000. Thanks again to the DIY above, and also this DIY for compression test:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engin...lots-pics.html
my compression test numbers were a little strange to me (215, 215, 215, 220) but after speaking with some mechanic friends of mine different factors change test numbers (like peculiarities of testers), so whats most important is consistency.
Inspect valve clearance
again it shouldnt be a problem for at least 100,000 miles. if you here notticable valve cliking you should inspect the valves using the same DIY above for removing the valve cover and these DIYs for checking them (click on the appropriate links http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/040404.html
Minder Number 5
Replace engine coolant (This can be done yourself)
I have seen a lot of conflicting info on when to do this on this sight. some people advocate waiting for 100000 miles or 10 years to change the coolant, others say otherwise. after reading some general articles online about when to do this, I found that most recommen 3 year/30,000 miles to protect against corrosion. coolant is very cheap and changing it is very easy so I would go with this approach. getting a professional coolant system flush at 50-60,000 is also probably a good Idea but not required.you need 1.8 gallons of 50/50 antifreeze here is a DIY Coolant Replacement (K20Z) according to this manual you should only use Honda stuff but I am not sure how important it is in this case. either way it is fairly cheap.
CONCLUSION:
so to sum it up you should do most of these things on this list but you can also just follow your maintenance minder. use your own common sense to figure out what you think needs to be done. again I have been assuming that you have an SI, if not you will need to look for R18 specific info on some of the links but mostly it is available. check this site for most things http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/manual.html.
other things to keep in mind that are not listed above include:
1. Clutch
you should be mindful of your clutch wear as well. an easy way to check if you have slippage is by driving to about 45 MPH, putting your car in 3rd and slamming the brakes until the car comes to a full stop and dies. watch the RPM guage, if your RPMs shoot up, then your clutch is slipping and you should consider changing it soon. here is DIY if you need to change the clutch Dropping transmission to replace clutch
2. Windshield Wipers
change your windshield wipers every 20-30,000 miles or as necessary. you can either buy the inserts (relatively cheap) or the full blades (relatively expensive).Windshield wiper replacement sedan
3. Radiator Hoses and engine wiring and battery
Radiator Hoses should be firm but not hard. they should also not be squishy and sticky. the hose should not be bloated or deformed. here is a video that explains more How to Check Radiator Hoses - Mahalo.com. changing your hose is easy, just undue the clamps and put the new hose on. you should also change/drain your coolant if you need to change your hose (see above). engine wiring should also be visibly inspected. the most important wires to check are the battery cables. corrosion should be cleaned off of these cables. this can be done with any carbonated drink but is best done with regular soda water, and a wire brush. make sure that corrosion has not entered the insulation. if it has, consider replacing the cable. paint the leads and cable ends with anti corrosive chemical and reinstall. if you have been experiencing a lot of corrosion lately, it could be a result of a dying battery, parasitic electric drain, or overdrawing your cars electrical system (usually after market parts such as stereo equipment or lighting). if you have recently installed high draw after market equipment, you may want to consult a stereo shop on whether you need a high capacity alternator or other remedies. if you are experiencing parasitic drain see a professional for assistance. if your battery is more than 5 years old or you have recently experienced several dead battery situations you should consider replacing it. check your other engine wires as well for corrosion or insulation burning/defects. replace as nessasary.
4. Door/Windo/Sunroof/Trunk seals
inspect your seals for tearing leaking or other defects. replace as necessary. you should also use Shin-Etsu (or any other silicone based) grease to lubricate your window seals.
5. Timing Chain
our cars are equipped with Timing Chains, which is good because they are more durable than timing belts. like any other interference engine, failure in the timing chain will result in catastrophic consequences. that being said, timing chains should not need replacing if you keep up with regular engine maintenance. it would still be a good idea to have your timing chain inspected every 80,000 to 100,000 miles. this can easily be done when you have your valves inspected as per Maintenance Minder 4. if the chain looks damaged, is excessively loose, or if the tensioner seems to be malfunctioning replace the chain and tensioner. check this link for more on inspectionCam Chain Inspection (K20Z)
I cannot take credit for any of these DIYs or other articles that I did not write. please take a second to leave them a message letting them know that their DIY was helpful.
anybody else please feel free to add to this or correct this as nessasary.
Have a Nice Day!
